My Journey to Dushanbe
Food, Mountains, and Culture: A Weekend in Dushanbe. Learn more from Madi Borash.
MB
Madi Borash
Thu, 19 Sep 2024
Cabbage as street decorations, Sleeping Buddha, and one of the world's tallest flagpoles. Yes, you can find all of this in the capital of Tajikistan, Dushanbe.
As soon as you land, you can't miss the stunning mountain views right outside your plane window. I mean, it's no wonder – 93% of Tajikistan is covered in mountains! Most people come here to see the Pamirs, drive the famous Pamir Highway, or check out Lake Iskanderkul. But since we only had two days, we decided to focus on exploring Dushanbe.
Upon arriving in Dushanbe, we boarded a trolleybus that, though appearing rather "Soviet" on the outside, proved to be quite modern inside. This took us from the airport to the city center. To navigate the city, I used the Yandex Maps app, which proved invaluable for planning public transport routes and finding places of interest. When I began compiling a list of sights and marking them on a map (using the MAPS.ME app), it became apparent that almost all of them were located around Rudaki Park. As I approached the park, I could see the monument to Ismoil Somoni, arguably the main symbol of Dushanbe.
Ismoil Somoni is considered the founder of the Tajikistan. His legacy is revered by the people and is immortalized not only by a monument but also by the name of one of the city's main streets.
A short walk takes you to the park, home to the Rudaki memorial. Rudaki is revered as the father of Tajik literature. Next, you can explore the square near the presidential palace. Besides the monument to Tajikistan's State Emblem, you'll get a stunning city view. And there's this massive flagpole that was once the tallest in the world. The flag itself weighs nearly half a ton!
As evening approached, we already knew where to go for dinner to try traditional cuisine. Not far from Rudaki Park, there is a teahouse called "Rohat," the largest I've ever been to. However, the building is old, and the interior is not as luxurious as in restaurants.
Despite this, the interior was quite beautiful and cozy, with the ceilings, adorned with intricate patterns and ornaments, being particularly impressive. The menu was limited, but we tried mastoba (rice soup) and kabob (shashlik).
You can find restaurants called "Qurutobkhona" that specialize in this dish. It's kind of like a hearty pizza with melted qurt, a local delicacy. Definitely worth a try when you visit Tajikistan.
The local cuisine is generally similar to what is popular in our country: plov, manti, shashlyk, sorpa, lagman, and samsa. There are also dishes specific to Tajik cuisine, such as kurutob.
The next day, we visited the National Museum of Antiquities. We were the only visitors in the museum that morning. Here, we were able to see artifacts that predate the country's recorded history.
The centerpiece of the museum is a reclining Buddha that was discovered by archaeologists at the Buddhist monastery of Ajina-Teppa. The Buddha was so large that it had to be transported to the museum in pieces. The exhibition is truly impressive, especially when you realize that Buddhist monasteries once flourished in what is now Tajikistan.
After the museum, we headed to Kokhi Navruz, one of the largest palaces in the world. Intrigued by its grandeur, we tried to enter but unfortunately, there was an event taking place that day. Guided tours are the only way to explore the palace, and special tickets must be purchased in advance. From the outside, the palace is truly magnificent, with its rich national-style decor adorned with traditional ornaments.
A must-see destination in Dushanbe is the recently inaugurated Istiklol Square. At the heart of the square stands an awe-inspiring architectural complex that resembles a rocket poised for launch. This striking monument immediately captures attention and adds a contemporary touch to the city's skyline.
To conclude our trip, we decided to visit the Hissar Fortress, located about 30 kilometers from downtown Dushanbe in the town of Hissar. Getting there proved to be a bit more challenging than we anticipated: we first took a bus to the central bus station to catch a regional bus, then transferred to a marshrutka and finally took a taxi for the last leg of the journey, paying 60 Tajik somoni.
The Hissar Fortress, a historic palace of the Bukharan Emirate, offers stunning views from its hilltop location. It is a cultural and historical landmark.
In two days, we managed to see quite a few sights, but far from all that Dushanbe has to offer. I've listed the remaining attractions below. Overall, this city could be a great alternative to Tashkent or Bishkek for a short weekend getaway.
The flight from Almaty takes only 1 hour and 30 minutes, the local food is delicious and hearty, the population speaks Russian, the prices are quite low, and the people here were very hospitable and friendly.
Our trip took place in autumn, and I think the best time to visit the city is either autumn or spring when the weather is most comfortable.
And one last funny thing: on our way to Hissar, we saw a strange building shaped like a melon. It turned out to be a former national teahouse, which was supposed to be the city's landmark, but now it's no longer in operation.
Here are some other places I recommend:
National Museum of Tajikistan
Mehrgon Bazaar
Youth Lake Park
Haji Yakub Mosque